Perched on the Atlantic coast between Tangier and Rabat, Larache is a city of dual identities. Walking through its streets, you feel the salt-tinged breeze of the ocean and the lingering spirit of the Spanish Protectorate.
With its vibrant blue-and-white facades, horseshoe-shaped plazas, and ancient ruins, Larache is a coastal gem that feels remarkably different from its more famous neighbors. It is a place of poetry, seafood, and “Despedida” (the local tradition of evening strolls).
Larache is built around the mouth of the Loukkos River. While it has deep Moroccan roots, its modern character was largely shaped during the Spanish occupation (1911–1956). This fusion has created a unique “Hispanico-Moorish” atmosphere that is most evident in its architecture and the laid-back rhythm of local life.
🏛️ The Two Faces of the City
- The Spanish Ensanche (New City): At the heart of Larache is the Place de la Libération (formerly Plaza de España). This grand, elliptical plaza is lined with colonial buildings and sidewalk cafés where locals sit for hours over café con leche. It is the perfect spot to watch the city’s pulse.
- The Medina: Just off the plaza, the old medina unfolds. It is smaller and quieter than those in Fez or Marrakesh, characterized by white-washed walls, bright blue doors, and steep, narrow alleys that lead down toward the harbor.
📍 What to Explore in Larache
1. Lixus: The Mythical Roman Ruins
Just across the river lies Lixus, one of the oldest archaeological sites in Morocco. Legend has it that this was the site of the Garden of the Hesperides, where Hercules picked the golden apples. Explore the remains of the Roman salt-fish factories (garum), the theater, and the temples that offer a panoramic view of the Loukkos marshes.
2. The Stork-Filled Casbah (Castillo de las Cigüeñas)
Built by the Spanish in the 17th century, this fortress is now a picturesque ruin. As the name suggests, it is famous for the dozens of stork nests that crown its battlements. It’s a hauntingly beautiful spot for sunset photography.
3. The Balcony of the Atlantic
Larache’s corniche (waterfront promenade) offers some of the best Atlantic views in the country. Watch the colorful fishing boats return to the harbor with their daily catch, or head to the Playa Peligrosa (Dangerous Beach)—named for its wild waves—for a walk along the rugged shoreline.
4. The Grave of Jean Genet
For literary fans, a visit to the Spanish Cemetery is a must. It is the final resting place of the famous French writer Jean Genet, who lived in Larache and requested to be buried here, overlooking the sea and the old prison.
Leave a comment